Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Theatre of Life

In the 80's the brand Danskins made its appearance. It is still around. The brand tag line was 'life is a stage'. I guess that always kind of stuck with me. Its so true. We are all in a 'performance' of some sort. All characters in the production of life. 

We remain the central characters, the constants in the multiple scenes; but the real quality of our production comes from the supporting cast. They are the ones who influence us and guide us throughout the production of life. They are the ones who add the colour and the themes. They influence the music and the sets. 

They are parents, siblings, teachers, coaches, school and team mates and neighbours. 
I have been fortunate throughout my life to have had some amazing cast members. 

While I have had the fare share of psychopathic assholes to deal with, by and large i have been fortunate to have had my life cross paths with some unique individuals. 
One such person is 'Uncle Nihal' or the famed Sri Lankan Photographer, traveller, author and all-round nice guy, Nihal Fernando. 

Uncle Nihal was our neighbour down Skelton Road and the father of my friends Yohan and Anu Weerasuriya. 

We moved to Skelton Road around the early 70's. The country was under the ham fisted rule of Sirimavo, a horror of a woman in more ways than one and a totally incompetent Head of State. Her policy of nationalisation and extreme socialism had driven us back to the caves and most of us had converted what were lawns and gardens into vegetable plots in order to supplement our diets and keep from starving on the meagre rations dished out by the cooperative store. 

My daily routine included walking to the bread line early morning and coming home and watering the mannioc, sogum, soy bean and cow pea we had in the front garden and the tomatoes and chill plants in the back. I even had some Aubergine plants that I was quite proud of. After that it was a forced 'rest' ala the rules of the senior Mrs Unamboowe and then it was off to play. Invariably, bare bodied and bare footed, still in my kerosene smelling blue drill school shorts. Thankfully, by this time my mother had given up her traumatic practice of 'dressing me up' to go and play. Too embarrassing for mention. Maybe later. 

Gates and walls were apparently meant to be vaulted over or walked along and having navigated the perimeters of a few of the neighbouring houses, I would end up at Yohans. 
He was one year younger than me and Anu was one year older. While Anu didn't really waste her time on us, Yohan and I would invent games ranging from 'hora-police' to 'cowboys and Indians'. We built tree houses, and club houses and started a secret society along with our friend Aku who lived a few walls away. We climbed trees as routine and swung between branches in Tarzanesque fashion, and ran along roofs of the never too pleased neighbours houses, for no reason but because they were the shortest routes from pint A to B. 

Uncle Nihal was a patient observer of all of our antics  He would watch us with slightly angular stance and a half smile; a kind of perplexed, amused, curious look on his face and he found great humour in what we were up to. He helped us build a rope ladder that got us to the top of the 'dhung' tree. He helped us get our tree house complete and most of all he encouraged us to be boys, to be playful and carefree and mischievous. He famously encouraged us to play a prank on one of our less 'humoured' neighbours and gave us various seeds of ideas that sent us off on great adventures, bounding over walls and up trees. He definitely wrote a scene in the production of our lives that was unique and valued. 

The Fernando family home was a meeting place for the who's who in the art and social world of the 70's. Aunty Dodo and Uncle Nihal were surrounded by characters like Pat Decker, Scott Direckze, Ena De Silva, Lucky Senanayaka, Barbera Sansoni, Dominic Sansoni, Nanda Senanayake Lyn De Alwis and Winston and Iranganie Serasinghe all of who were a constant source of education, entertainment and awe to me. We met Dieter Plage the world renown wildlife photographer and watched his films in the living room, sipping ginger beer. We spent countless hours in the Zoo as his friend was the curator and played with everything from Gibbons to Leopard cubs and Pythons. 

We would hang around in hope of the odd cigarette or a 'little shot' that was handed our way but for most of it, just to absorb the conversation and the atmosphere. Aunty Dodo's unmistakeable laugh and uncle Nihal's soft chuckle still echo in my memory. 

As we grew older, then came the trips. I was old enough for my parents to let me travel with the Fernando family and to this day, I consider that one of the greatest privileges I have enjoyed. This was travel with 'Travel Royalty'. This was travel with one of the greatest travellers of his time. We went to Anuradhapura, Mihintale, Sigiriya, Yala, Wilpattu, Marawila where they had a property and to so many more destinations over the years. 
These trips were epic. 

first, the old Land Rovers were pack full of Uncle Nihal's photography equipment. Cameras, Lenses, tripods, bags of film and bags and bags of other equipment such as flashes. Al this filled a built in platform that extended half way through the back of the rear of the Land Rover. They were both canvas topped and with open sided and we rode in the back, open to the elements, and loving every second of it. 

Under Aunty Dodo's supervision the supplies were packed. Food and drink to last the trip. My mother made date cookies that were named 'Mama's biscuits' by Uncle Nihal and quickly became a staple addition to the packing list. 
Once we were all packed and ready we awaited an early morning departure as was customary. I hardly slept. I was so excited for the morning to come, i would keep checking my room clock to see if the designated hour had arrived. Once it painfully got there, I would bound out of bed, grab my things and bolt over to number 18. Shaking with excitement. 

With Uncle Nihal, nothing was rushed. He was the most laid back individual i have ever met. The trip was not just a drive to the destination. It was the journey. We stopped at temples and rock carvings, at water holes and old buildings. We drank tea and picnicked along the way and all the while, he would amble around, photographing random subjects. This is where I first developed my love and passion for photography. I heard a click of a shutter and I was smitten. He once gave me a camera to take a picture. I held it in my hands like it was gold and once I looked through the viewfinder and took a shot I was sold. I clearly recall his patience when taking a shot. It wasn't about just pointing and shooting. These were the days of black and white photography. It was all about the light, the angles and mood and the setting. He would take hours to find the prefect shot. All these were invaluable lessons absorbed by me and which I tried to put into practice years later, when I decided to photograph for more than just fun. 

On one instance when we were in Anuradhapura. He woke up before dawn on almost every morning we were there. He made the drive over the the lake shore and photograph the great Buddhist shrine, the Ruwanweliseya. Each morning he moved just a little bit away from the previous place, capturing different angles and light. He made sure he was there and set up before the light came up.  When it did, he took time over each shot, never rushed, never flustered. 

Anu says that the only time he hurt them physically was once when they were photographing a leopard and she had started moving in the Rover. He had pinched her tummy to make her stop. This I can relate to having abused my amused younger son Sachin for the same offence in Horton Plains, when he 'spoiled' a shot i was about to make. Sachin learned a few choice new words that day but no physical pain was dished out. I am sure Sharya and Sachin would both have another accounts of my outbursts while photographing.. but this is the one I recall. 

While photography was the main purpose of these trips, it didn't stop us from enjoying the locations we were at. We climbed rocks in Mihintale, Scaled The rock fortress of Sigiriya, we ran through the rain in Marawila, and Yohan and I went fishing with Uncle Nihal. I learned to bait a hook and give it a yank when the fish bit.  Our first fishing trip ended up with a bucket full of 'sprat' sized fish that was happily consumed by Scott Direkzes cat. At night we listened to stories of past trips and experiences and while the adults sipped Arrack and Ginger Ale, us kids lolled around munching cookies and cadju nuts and enjoying the nights. 

Another memory I have is of Uncle Nihal, sitting in the open balcony of Manikkapolauttu Bungalow in Wilpattu, at night, photographing Deer in the rain, by the light of the flashing lightening. He sat for hours into the night taking shot after shot. I am not sure of the technique he used and haven't seen the results of that night but I learned the lesson of patience in the field from none other than him, on many occasions like this. 

The years went by and I went overseas. On returning, life took over and marriages, children and careers got in the way. I dropped in periodically to see Aunty Dodo and Uncle Nihal. To enjoy a laugh and listen to a tale of a trip or something Yohan and I had done. He still found great humour in our escapades. We sipped an Arrack and chatted in to the night. A few years ago, while photographing in Yapahuwa ( i think)  sadly he suffered an injury that has made it difficult for him to enjoy the things he did. This means his travels are now over and he is confined mostly to his home. I am guilty of the great crime of not visiting him in years. Yohan and I have met from time to time but I haven't got around to meeting Uncle Nihal in recent times. The last contact I had was when Aunty Dodo called me to congratulate me on something I had done. 

Its sad that with time, we lose touch with those who mean so much to us; who  have had such profound influences over our lives; who gave us so much happiness and peace and were such a joy to be around. Aunty Dodo and Uncle Nihal, Anu and Yohan created a little oasis of happiness and learning for me. As I grow older and move on into the late summer/early fall of life, I look back with an amazing fondness and appreciation for all those hours spend in the company of a wonderful human being. A man who was patient, kind and an inspiration to me.  I will make the time to go see him when I return from the next business trip I have to make. I hope this like the many intentions i had before won't fall by the way side as well. 

Uncle Nihal, Aunty Dodo, Anu and Yohan. Thank you for an amazing scene in the drama of my life. i am a better man for the time spent in your company.